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| IVN/GOTS (global organic textile standard) Guidelines© - Condensed Version |
IVN-Zertifiziert BEST
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IVN-Zertifiziert
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Requirements for Organic Fibre Production
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Approved are natural fibres, certified organic as well as fibres from an “in conversion period”, certified according to recognised international or national standards and certified by any IFOAM accredited or internationally recognised (according to ISO 65) certifier.
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Label Grading and Material Composition
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Grading as "organic" or "organic – in conversion"
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Grading as "made with x % organic materials" or "made with x % organic – in conversion materials"
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95% or more of the fibres - excluding non-textile accessories - must be of certified organic origin or from 'in conversion' period.
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70% - 95% or more of the fibres - excluding accessories - must be of certified organic origin or from 'in conversion' period.
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Additional requirements for IVN-Certified BEST
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This label is only applicable to products with 100% certified organic fibres in the textile fabric.
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Separation and Identification
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At all stages through the processing chain it has to be assured, that organic and conventional fibres are not commingled and that organic fibres are not contaminated.
All organic raw materials must be clearly labelled and identified as such at all stages through the processing chain.
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Preparatory Treatment for Finishing Processes
Boiling, kiering, washing, bleaches on basis of oxygen, mechanical or thermal treatments processes with the use of substances on basis of natural raw materials are admitted. Prohibited are ammonia treatments, chlorination of wools and optical brightening. Approved input substances are only paraffine, paraffine oils und substances on basis of natural raw materials. Allowed sizing agents are starch, starch derivates, other natural substances and CMC (carboxymethylcellulose).
Polyvinylalcohol (PVA) may be used < 25% of the total sizing in combination with natural substances only.
For desizing allowed are only GMO free enzymes. Knitting and weaving oils must not contain heavy metals. Other inputs are allowed on basis of natural raw materials only.
Mercerization is allowed with restricted auxiliaries, alcaline must be recycled.
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Additional requirementsfor IVN-Certified BEST
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Mercerization is prohibited.
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Dyeing, Colour Auxiliaries, Print and Pigments
Approved are natural dyestuffs free from heavy metals (acc. to ETAD) and toxicologically recognized as safe or synthetic dyestuffs of which the AOX-content is below 1,0%.
Exception: Blue-, green- and turquoise dyestuffs: Copper content below 5%.
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No use of formaldehyde and of legally banned Azo dyes that eliminate carcinogenic amines.
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Prohibition of metallic complex dyes and dyestuffs which may act carcinogenic or allergenic in the finished textile.
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Allowed are printing methods that are based on water or natural oils only. Prohibited are discharge printing methods, aromatic solvents and amine-releasing azo dyes.
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Dying auxiliaries also must be free from heavy metals (acc. to ETAD) and permanent AOX may not constitute more than 0,1% of any input.
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Additional requirements for IVN-Certified BEST
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Approved are natural dyestuffs free from heavy metals (acc. to ETAD) and toxicologically recognized as safe or synthetic dyestuffs of which the AOX-content is below 1,0%. No exception for copper.
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Finishing
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Allowed are mechanical, thermal and other physical finishing methods. Natural auxiliaries and GMO free enzymes are permitted. Only for softening, milling and felting synthetic auxiliaries are permitted, as long as they meet the strict requirements of this standard. Flame proofing auxiliaries are exceptionally permitted if their use is legally required in the country and for the product in question. They must at least meet the strict requirements of this standard.
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Ready-to-wear
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Allowed are natural and synthetic sewing threads, embroidery yarns are accepted of natural fibres and viscose only.
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Appliqué is Allowed on basis of natural materials only.
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Elastic bands and yarns can consist of natural and synthetic materials.
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For Linings, pockets and hatbands natural fibres are allowed only. Seam bindings are allowed to be of natural and synthetic fibres. Shoulder pads are allowed of natural fibres and viscose. Also mixtures with polyester are allowed. Labels, inlays and Vlieseline are allowed of natural fibres and viscose only.
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Additional requirements for IVN-Certified BEST
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Allowed are 100% natural fibres and cotton-covered polyester yarns only, embroidery yarns must be 100% natural fibres. Only 100% natural fibre inlays, vlieseline, seam bindings, hatbands, labels, edgings and laces are allowed. For bands and edgings in underwear an elastane admixture is permitted.
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Accessoires
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Buttons / press-studs: allowed are natural raw materials and metal. Metal buttons must be free of chrome and nickel.
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Cords and borders are allowed of natural fibres only.
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Zips: Allowed are tapes of natural materials and polyester. Allowed are chains of metal (free of chrome and nickel) and plastics (without PVC).
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Buckles : Allowed are tapes of natural materials only and chains of natural materials and metal (free of chrome and nickel).
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Edgings: Allowed are natural materials and elastane.
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Other, not explicit listed accessories must consist of natural fibres.
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Material in general:
No threatened timber, no PVC, no nickel or chrome
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Environmental management
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AOperators must have an environmental policy, which must include a policy statement. Wet processing units must keep full records of the use of chemicals, energy, water consumption and waste water treatment, including the disposal of sludge.
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Waste water treatment
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All wet processing units must, if they are direct or indirect waste-water dischargers, have at least an internal or external functional waste-water treatment plant. Wet processing units must measure and monitor sediment, temperature and pH.
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Storage, packaging and transport
Products must be stored and transported in such a manner as to prevent contamination (with conventional products and prohibited substances) or substitution of the contents.
Packaging material must not contain PVC.
Transport means and routes must be documented.
In case, pesticides/biocides are used in store rooms / transport means, they have to comply with the international or national organic production standard on which the inspection is based on.
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Record keeping & internal quality assurance
The operational procedures and practices must be supported by effective documented control systems and records to provide an audit trail to enable the inspectorate to trace.
Valid organic certificates (=transaction certificates) from an accredited certification body must be maintained for all purchased organic fibres and yarns.
sein.
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Technical Quality Parameters and Orientation Values for Residues
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Any final product labelled according to these standards should either comply with the required technical (regarding rubbing-, perspiration-, light-, saliva-, washing fastness and shrinkage values) and chemical quality parameters or the information on the (potential) non-compliance(s) is to be indicated by the licensee of the final product in the product declaration.
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Prescriptive limits and fastnesses are audited according to DIN and ISO. Particularly high requirements are made to the finished product being free from residues and compatible with human use.
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Sozialkriterien
The following social criteria currently apply to the textile processing level only. As far as a practical quality assurance system for the farm level will be in place, these social criteria shall apply for the farm level as well.
There is no forced or bonded labour.
Workers are not required to lodge "deposits" or their identity papers with their employer and are free to leave their employer after reasonable notice.
Workers, without distinction, have the right to join or form trade unions of their own choosing and to bargain collectively.
A safe and hygienic working environment shall be provided, bearing in mind the prevailing knowledge of the industry and of any specific hazards. Adequate steps shall be taken to prevent accidents and injury to health arising out of, associated with, or occurring in the course of work, by minimising, so far as is reasonably practicable, the causes of hazards inherent in the working environment.
There shall be no new recruitment of child labour.
Companies shall develop or participate in and contribute to policies and programmes which provide for the transition of any child found to be performing child labour to enable her or him to attend and remain in quality education until no longer a child; "child" and "child labour" as being defined by ILO.
Wages and benefits paid for a standard working week meet, at a minimum, national legal standards or industry benchmark standards, whichever is higher. In any event wages should always be enough to meet basic needs and to provide some discretionary income
Working hours comply with national laws and benchmark industry standards, whichever affords greater protection.
There is no discrimination in hiring, compensation, access to training, promotion, termination or retirement based on race, caste, national origin, religion, age, disability, gender, marital status, sexual orientation, union membership or political affiliation.
To every extent possible work performed must be on the basis of recognised employment relationship established through national law and practice.
Physical abuse or discipline, the threat of physical abuse, sexual or other harassment and verbal abuse or other forms of intimidation shall be prohibited.
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Quality assurance system
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Operators from post harvest handling up to garment making and final packing as well as im- and exporters of labelled articles according to these standards have to undergo an onsite annual inspection cycle (including possible unannounced inspections) and need to hold a valid operational certificate. Certifiers performing certification of processing and manufacturing stages according to these standards need to be accredited ISO 65 including textile certification in the scope of their ISO 65 accreditation. In addition they have to be authorized by a member of the international working group.
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The licensed operator is expected to undertake residue testing according to a risk assessment of contamination. All products certified according to these standards and the components of such products should be included in this risk assessment and therefore are potentially subject to testing. Approved to perform inspections according to these standards are laboratories, that are accredited according to regulation EN ISO and that have appropriate experience in textile residue testing.
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